Explore Germany’s Middle Mosel and Bernkastel-Kues
View of Bernkastel-Kues either side of the Mosel and the Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard on the right - Source: Wine Keller
Base yourself around the popular wine town of Bernkastel-Kues and discover the beautiful Middle Mosel wine region with its vineyards and Mosel wineries, including by bike!
The middle section of Germany’s world-famous Mosel wine region, with its famous vineyards and stunning scenery, is said to be the ‘Mosel heartland’. From a vineyard and wine perspective the ‘Middle Mosel’ tends to be split into 2 areas - the vineyards around the famous town of Piesport and those around the popular and well-known wine town of Bernkastel-Kues.
The focus of this blog is discovering the Mosel wine region around Bernkastel-Kues - a great place to spend a couple of days exploring the villages, vineyards and of course the famous Mosel Riesling wines! What better way to explore this region than by bike? Read on to see what we got up to when we did exactly this!
Also read here about our bike tour of the Middle Mosel from Piesport to Trittenheim.
The Middle Mosel (Mittelmosel)
The 120 kilometre section of the Mosel between the city of Trier in the south and the wine town of Reil in the north, is called the Middle Mosel region. After Reil, you enter the Lower Mosel or Terrassen Mosel.
This section of Germany’s Mosel wine region is where many famous Mosel wineries and vineyards are located - it’s also a beautiful stretch of the River Mosel where it flows between the low mountain ranges of Eifel and Hunsrück. The river slopes - exceptionally steep in places - are just covered in vineyard after vineyard and it’s an incredible sight! This is the perfect destination for wine lovers and wine tourists, not just because of the vast array of top winemakers and top wines here, but the stunning scenery, the quaint wine villages, the excellent cuisine and hospitality and the chance to explore and appreciate one of Europe’s most beautiful rivers.
Middle Mosel vineyards on the slopes of the beautiful River Mosel - Source: Winekeller
The Middle Mosel vineyards around Bernkastel-Kues and German Mosel Riesling
The most famous and spectacular of the Middle Mosel’s famous vineyards stretch from Brauneberg in the south, through Lieser, Bernkastel-Kues, Wehlen, Graach, Zeltingen, Ürzig, Erden, Wolf, Traben-Trarbach and Reil.
These are some of the world’s best vineyards, producing spectacular wines, predominantly white Riesling, but also some fine Spätburgunders (Pinot noir). This is also home to some of the world’s best wine makers, including Dr. Loosen, JJ Prüm and Markus Molitor.
The valley is mainly flint and slate, producing beautifully characterful wines, more earthy and spicy on the red slate Ürzig vineyards, rich wines from the shallow, stony slate Wehlen vineyards and more earthy on the deeper, heavier slate vineyards of Graach.
Bernkasteler Doctor Mosel vineyard
The most famous vineyard and wine here is the Bernkasteler Doctor - a single location vineyard, producing only Riesling, which rises steeply, directly above Bernkastel. It is considered to be one of the most famous and expensive vineyards in the world. Read here about the history of the Bernkasterler Doctor and the story behind the name!
The ‘Doctorberg’ was first mentioned in documents dating back to 1677 and its wines are highly valued, producing what are widely regarded as some of the finest wines -Riesling wines - in the world.
The Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard above Bernkastel
Bernkastel on the River Mosel
Planning your Middle Mosel wine tour
The best way to discover this beautiful wine region is to book accommodation in one of the main wine towns of Bernkastel-Kues or Traben-Trarbach and use this as a base to explore the beautiful River Mosel and the many wineries.
When to visit the Middle Mosel and Bernkastel-Kues
Late Spring, Summer and early Autumn are all good times to visit this beautiful part of Germany’s Mosel wine region - but if you get the chance to go in September then try not to miss the highlight of the Mosel calendar - the wine festival of Bernkastel-Kues.
Bernkastel-Kues wine festival
One of Germany’s most famous wine festivals is celebrated in September each year (September 1st-5th 2022) in Bernkastel-Kues, with fabulous wines and food, live music, fireworks and a wine festival. Book accommodation well in advance as it will be busy!
Staying in Bernkastel-Kues
Bernkastel-Kues, which is effectively the twin towns of Bernkastel and Kues, split by the River Mosel, is a quintessential, beautiful, medieval German town and the centre of the Mosel wine region. Because of its charm, its laid-back atmosphere, its central location amongst so many world-famous vineyards and its position on a spectacular loop on the beautiful River Mosel, it attracts a lot of tourists!
The centre of Bernkastel is the Marktplatz and is said to be among the best-preserved medieval market places in Germany, with beautiful, gabled, half-timbered houses dating back to the 17th century.
The beautiful medieval half-timbered buildings in Bernkastel
See later what to see and do in Bernkastel-Kues.
We would recommend 2 hotels in Bernkastel-Kues:
Hotel Doctor Weinstube - dating back to 1668, in the centre of Bernkastel-Kues and full of historic charm. Home of the famous ‘Doctor ‘Mosel wines - and known for its great atmosphere, hospitality and delicious food in the restaurant!
Landhotel Rochter - outside Bernkastel right on the River Mosel in Zeltingen-Rachtig. Recently renovated, offering hotel rooms and apartments. Excellent breakfasts and hospitality!
Staying in Lieser
Lieser is situated between Brauneberg and Bunkastel and is a top vineyard site. It is also known for its vast 19th century neo-Gothic castle - Schloss Lieser - which is also a hotel. Marriott Schloss Lieser has been renovated with no expense spared and offers guests a luxurious stay, with fabulous food and wines and views over the Mosel. There is also a luxury spa and fitness area - and you can of course visit the famous Weingut Schloss Lieser - Thomas Haag.
The stunning neo-gothic Schloss Lieser Hotel
Weingut Schloss Lieser
Planning your Mosel bike tour from Bernkastel-Kues
The best way to explore this beautiful wine region is by bike.
We hired bikes in Bernkastel and spent 2 days cycling the Mosel cycle path. The paths are easy to navigate and flat and there are lots of places to stop and rest and enjoy some refreshments - preferably a glass of Riesling!
The complete ‘Mosel Radweg’ is 275km long, starting in France in Thionville and finishing in Koblenz in Germany. This is on our ‘to do list’ one day! Especially if you have electric bikes it’s an easy ride and takes you through some stunning scenery!
There are lots of bike routes to explore in the Middle Mosel. See here for everything you need to know about cycling around Bernkastel!
Here’s what we did:
Day 1 - Mosel bike tour north from Bernkastel-Kues to Kröv
During our first day, which was beautifully sunny, we picked up our bikes and headed north on the Mosel cycle path. We left behind the imposing Bernkasteler Doctor vineyard looming over Bernkastel-Kues and followed the path through the pretty town of Graach and on through the Wehlen vineyards rising steeply up from the Mosel. We passed the famous wineries of Dr. Loosen, the legendary J.J.Prüm and Markus Molitor and cycled underneath the famous and top-rated, south/south-west facing Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard, named after a ‘sundial’, which Jodokus Prüm erected in 1842.
The famous Wehlener Sonnenuhr vineyard
We stopped in Zeltingen-Rachtig for welcome refreshments and continued on to Ürzig, cycling under the new and controversial bridge carrying traffic way above us, over the Mosel and through these world-class vineyards. There was and still is a lot of controversy about the construction of this bridge - maybe it’s called progress but it really jars seeing this vast construction carve its way through this amazingly beautiful river valley and some of the best vineyards Nature has to offer.
After stopping in Erden for a brief wine tasting at Weingut Meulenhof, we continued onto Kröv before we turned around to head back to Bernkastel. On the way back we stopped for a coffee and plum cake sitting next to the Mosel!
Total distance - approximately 30km.
Visit and wine tasting - Weingut Meulenhof
We could have visited one of the larger and famous vineyards on this stretch of the Mosel (see later), but we opted to visit Weingut Meulenhof - a small estate, but producing excellent value wines, which had come highly recommended.
They farm 3 top vineyard sites including:
‘Wehlener Sonnenuhr’ - its gentle slopes and heavy slate soils produce rich, mineral wines
‘Erdener Treppchen’ - its special soils of blue slate, typical of the Mosel and ‘Rotliegend’, a reddish soil with quite a high mineral content, produces excellent, fruity Rieslings
‘Erdener Prälat’ - the combination of delicate slate soils and the reddish ‘Rotliegend’ soils (see above), enable the sun to penetrate and warm the vines, meaning this site is one of the earlier-ripening sites on the Mosel. This narrow but steep stretch of vineyard in a sheltered loop in the river at Erden produces some outstanding wines.
Day 2 - Mosel bike tour south from Bernkastel-Kues to Brauneberg
We were less fortunate on our second day and it rained the whole morning! We set off in the opposite direction to the day before and headed south on the Mosel Radweg, past the beautiful Landshut Castle overlooking Bernkastel and through the rolling hills and countryside to the village of Brauneberg, where we stopped to have some lunch and dry off!
On the way back we cycled across the River Mosel to visit the famous wine town of Lieser. Famous for its neo-gothic castle - now a hotel (see above) - it is also famous for its vineyards. The hotel sits at the base of the steep Rosenlay slopes and the perfect south-facing Niederberg-Helden slopes, farmed by the Schloss Lieser estate.
We stopped for another wine tasting in Lieser at Weingut Thanisch, another well-respected Middle Mosel winery, with excellent value wines.
We returned back to Bernkastel, staying on the Lieser side of the Mosel, in time to return our bikes and sit on the banks of the Mosel, enjoying the views!
Total distance - approximately 15km.
Visit and wine tasting - Weingut Thanisch
Weingut Thanisch is also a relatively small winery, compared to some of the ‘big names’, but they farm approximately 8 hectares on some of the best vineyard sites in the Middle Mosel. Carrying on the family winemaking tradition from 1648, today they export their wines to several countries around the world and are known for their fine, fruity Rieslings, with great aging potential but also, their sparkling sekt and range of both red and white ‘Burgundy’ wines.
They have a fabulous tasting room (vinothèque) directly on the Mosel and this is where we enjoyed a very lengthy tasting(!) of dry-sweet Rieslings across a range of vintages, as well as several Chardonnay, Pinot blancs and Pinot noir wines - all delicious and again, excellent value for money!
Other great Mosel wineries to visit in the area
We specifically avoided the ‘big name’ wineries, because we wanted to experience something a bit different, however we would recommend visiting one of the larger wineries in this area as well, to taste the wines of course, but also for the wine tourism experience!
We would recommend you try the following:
Dr. Loosen - Bernkastel-Kues
J.J.Prüm - Bernkastel-Wehlen
Weingut Markus Molitor - Bernkastel -Wehlen
Weingut Fritz Haag - Brauneberg
What else to see and do in Bernkastel-Kues and the Middle Mosel
Explore the old historic town of Bernkastel:
Spend time exploring the beautiful medieval town of Bernkastel. Head for the historic market square (marktplatz) and take a look at the famous Spitzhäuschen (Pointed House). Built in 1416, this half-timbered, pointed-roof building is among the oldest structures in Bernkastel - perhaps visit the wine bar inside! Also in the square, you can see the stunning late Renaissance Town Hall (Rathaus), dating back to the late 13th century and the beautiful St. Michael’s fountain in the centre of the square.
Wander round the small streets and alleyways and soak up the charming and relaxing atmosphere - or perhaps take the little tourist train!
Visit the Bernkastel-Kues Burg - Landshut Castle:
If you’re feeling energetic, take a walk - or rather hike - up to the 9th-century hilltop Landshut Castle, which was once the home of the archbishops of Trier. It’s a steep half mile climb but the view when you get to the top is spectacular and really worth it! You can see for miles over the Mosel Valley where it loops at Bernkastel and its majestic vineyards.
There is a beer garden here where you can get a refreshing drink, but the Burg Landshut restaurant is a great place for lunch and also dinner.
If you don’t think you can manage the hike up to the castle by foot then take the Burg Landshut Express!
Take a round-trip Mosel cruise
Take a round trip on a Mosel cruise from Bernkastel and sit back and enjoy the stunning views of vineyards, half-timbered houses and steep slopes either side of this beautiful section of the River Mosel.
Hike the Moselsteig:
If your preference is hiking rather than cycling, then take a hike along the beautiful Moselsteig. Covering some 365km and split into 24 sections, this is one of the most scenic and varied hiking routes in Germany and takes the hiker all along the vineyards, forests and steep slopes of the Mosel Valley. Sections 10 and 11 cover the area either side of Bernkastel-Kues.
Visit the Mosel Vinothek:
Learn all about Germany’s Mosel wines at the Mosel Vinothek in Bernkastel.
Explore the vineyards and see the views - by segway:
Hire a segway for a different way to experience the Middle Mosel vineyards!
Where to eat in Bernkastel-Kues
You can enjoy everything from simple country food to top cuisine in Bernkastel! Look for traditional dishes such as mushroom soup, pork knuckles, smoked Mosel eel, local fish, pork cutlets (schnitzel), potato salad, fresh vegetables and salads. Make sure you leave room for a hearty dessert - maybe fresh apple pie or plum tart?
See here for some fine dining options. We can personally recommend ‘Rotisserie Royale’ where we enjoyed a fabulous meal.
Hopefully we have given you lots of ideas and suggestions for planning your own tour of Germany’s Middle Mosel wine region.
For more information, see Bernkastel.de, Visitmosel and Mosel-Inside
Alternatively, relax and take a private, guided tour with German regional wine tour operator BottleStops who offer private guided tours of the Mosel and typically to Bernkastel-Kues in Mittel-Mosel, with wine-tastings included at two of its world-famous wineries.
Conclusion
The Middle Mosel is famous world-wide for its vineyards and its wines, especially Riesling wines, but it is also famous for its beautiful scenery and landscapes. We were blown away by the beauty of the River Mosel and the Mosel Valley in the area around Bernkastel-Kues and also fell in love with this famous, medieval town. The wines are pretty spectacular too! If you love wine and wine travel, then the Middle Mosel is waiting for you to visit!
