How to spend 3 days in Austria’s Wachau wine region
Ideas for a self-guided tour of the Wachau Valley, including cycling and cruising the Danube, visiting wineries, where to stay and where to eat!
Dürnstein by night in the heart of Austria’s Wachau Valley
Why explore Austria’s most famous wine region - the Wachau Valley
The Danube Valley between the historic towns of Krems and Melk, otherwise known as the Wachau Valley, is probably the most picturesque and romantic place to visit for wine lovers in Austria. Not only is it famous for its stunning white wines, especially Grüner Veltliner and Riesling wines, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, offering amazing scenery, history, culture and tradition for the wine enthusiast to discover!
We have visited the Wachau several times and find it to be one of the most relaxing, enchanting, interesting and captivating of wine tourist destinations. It is famous for its charming old villages surrounded by steep, terraced vineyards and lovely apricot orchards, its ancient castle ruins and baroque monasteries and of course the beautiful, romantic River Danube.
We want to share with you here our recommendations, based on our own experiences, for discovering Austria’s Wachau wine region under your own steam - its wines, foods, sights, culture and traditions - enjoy and we hope you get to experience it for yourself some time soon!
Looking across the Danube and Wachau Valley towards Stift Göttweig, near Krems - Source: Winekeller
An outline of our ‘Wachau Valley’ wine tour
We suggest below how you could spend 3 full days to get a great impression and appreciation of Austria’s Wachau Valley. These are just suggestions and naturally you could swap things around to fit with your schedule and priorities.
We suggest flying to Vienna and then hiring a car. It takes approximately 1.5 hours to drive to Dürnstein in the heart of the Wachau Valley and the route takes you through some lovely countryside and scenery.
Accommodation - where to stay in the Wachau wine region
The Wachau wine region is just an 18 mile stretch along the Danube valley between the historic towns of Krems and Melk. There are many options for accommodation - listed below are a few we have personally experienced. We would recommend basing yourself in one of 3 wine villages in the centre of the region - all beautiful to explore and right on the River Danube - Dürnstein, Weißenkirchen or Spitz:
Where to stay in Dürnstein:
Schloss Dürnstein - A 5 star hotel (and restaurant) and part of the Relais & Chateaux group - top end budget.
Winzerhof Leonhartsberger - A completely different experience staying at a local winery (with its own ‘heuriger’) in Loiben just outside of Dürnstein. Note that there are only 3 rooms available.
Georgedlinger im Dinstlhof - a lovely guesthouse in Unterloiben, excellent value for money and amazing home-made apricot jam! 4 double rooms and 1 single room available.
Where to stay in Weißenkirchen:
Raffelsberger Hof - Lovely, welcoming, boutique B&B hotel in the centre of Weißenkirchen.
Where to stay in Spitz:
Weinspitz Boutique Hotel Donabaum - A luxury, modern, boutique hotel in the vineyards - Note adults only
Gasthof Prankl - A family run hotel and restaurant on the Danube, overlooked by the ‘Hinterhaus’ castle ruins on the hill above.
For other accommodation suggestions click here.
Day 1 - River cruise and cycle tour to Spitz along the Danube
A great way to discover Austria's Wachau region, is by bike and river cruise - and what better way to discover this stunning wine region than by a combination of the two?
We rented bikes in Loiben, then cycled to nearby Dürnstein where we purchased one-way tickets to take us to Spitz on a river cruise. We took our bikes onboard with us and later enjoyed a wonderful cycle ride along the Danube, back to Loiben. Our river cruise lasted approximately 2 hours and we were considerably faster cycling back to Loiben, downhill all the way!!
You can purchase river cruise tickets at any of the main towns along the Wachau between Melk and Krems. River cruise companies include: DDSG Blue Danube and Brandner .
You can enquire about cycle hire in your hotel accommodation, but you’ll find many places offering cycle hire along the river and in the main towns.
What to see and do in Spitz:
A trip to the town of Spitz an der Donau is a must whilst visiting the Wachau.
Stroll around the lovely streets with its Renaissance and Baroque houses, its beautiful gothic church and impressive palace. Enjoy strolling along the River Danube at Spitz or work up an appetite by tackling any of the 50km of hiking trails around the town.
Find time - and energy! - to walk up the ‘Tausendeimerberg’ - or ‘Thousand bucket hill’ overlooking the town, to visit the old ruins of the twelfth century ‘Hinterhaus Castle’. You will be rewarded by fabulous views over the town and the Danube Valley.
Where to eat in Spitz:
We enjoyed a fabulous lunch at Gasthof Prankl, sitting outside and soaking up the view next to the River Danube, under the Hinterhaus Castle ruins. Gasthof Prankl has won numerous awards and prides itself on using local, seasonal, sustainably produced ingredients and there is a good choice of dishes, including vegetarian and vegan. Make sure you sample the delicious range of apricot desserts!
Wine tasting in Spitz
Weingut Högl:
After our lunch we decided to cycle up the Spitzer Graben hills to the village of Viessling and a wine tasting at Weingut Högl. This was certainly a climb and was a real test following our lunch - the ride back down later though was amazing - freewheeling all the way!
Weingut Högl is known for its award-winning, authentic, mineralic Grüner Veltliner and Riesling wines, with grapes grown in 10 hectares of steep, terraced vineyards, separated by distinctive dry stone walls. The Ried Schön vineyard alone has some 57 terraces spread over 130 metres in altitude. These are some of the best vineyards in the ‘Spitzer Graben’, a side valley of the Danube valley and the westernmost and highest part of the Wachau, with steep, rugged and stony terrain and a colder, much more challenging climate.
Josef Högl and son Georg practice natural viticulture and follow the philosophy that the fruit, the different slate and gneiss soils and the terroir should all dictate the character of the wines. We tasted a broad selection and loved all of them - they were all really characterful, pure and full of mineral flavours - top class wines.
As well as to taste these excellent wines, another good reason to visit Weingut Högl is to admire the fabulous winery and tasting room, for which they received a ‘state prize for architecture’ in 2016. Josef and Georg are dedicated to tradition, but also innovation, which shows through in their winemaking.
Where to buy Högl wines: USA - Winemonger; Netherlands - VinVin
Day 2 - Visit the famous Melk Abbey & explore Weißenkirchen
A visit to the Wachau wine region is not complete without taking time to visit the stunning Benedictine Melk Abbey.
Take the train or river cruise to the city of Melk and spend some time there, including a tour of the Abbey. Take time to stop off at Weißenkirchen on the way there, or the way back. If you fancy cycling, combine it with the train or river cruise.
We actually took a train to Spitz, then rented bikes from Spitz rail station, directly on the river and cycled from there to Melk, then back to Weißenkirchen.
The stunning Benedictine Melk Abbey, towering over the town below
What to see and do:
At the foot of the world-famous Benedictine Abbey on the hill, lies the city of Melk, a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. Take time to wander round, soaking up the atmosphere, exploring the many side streets and beautiful squares, with their old, traditional ‘Burgher-style’ houses. Check out the events calendar as Melk is a centre for many cultural and music events across the year.
Melk is a good place to also do a bit of shopping for some Wachau mementoes and to enjoy a spot of lunch.
Melk Abbey
Climb the hill up to the huge Abbey, which dominates the city below and from which you can enjoy brilliant views over the Danube and surrounding countryside. Take time to do a tour of the Abbey - see here for details and allow at least a couple of hours. The Abbey dates back to the 1700s when it was built as a royal palace. It was eventually gifted to Benedictine monks and despite being open to tourists today, it continues to serve its religious purpose and is home to hundreds of pupils training to become monks.
If you cycle back back to Weißenkirchen, look out for the impressive castle, Schloss Schönbühl on the right bank of the Danube, just below Melk, with origins dating back to the twelfth century.
Stop for refreshments in the pretty riverside town of Mittarnsdorf for ‘coffee and cake’ or, as we did, some lovely fizz with fresh apricot juice and some apricot patisseries!
Weißenkirchen
Weißenkirchen forms the largest wine-growing community in the Wachau, including the wine-growing villages of Joching, Wösendorf and St. Michael. It is also one of the most popular holiday destinations in the Wachau. Visit the mighty Gothic parish church in the centre of the town - you can’t miss it!
Where to eat in Weißenkirchen:
Check out the local heuriger to enjoy some lovely traditional food.
We would also recommend the Hofmeisterei Hirtzberger restaurant for an excellent lunch or dinner.
Wine tasting in Weißenkirchen
Weingut Rudi Pichler:
Rudi Pichler is one of the top established wine producers in the Wachau. Visit to taste the superb wines, but also to admire the modern winery, which was officially opened in 2004.
Rudi Pichler is known for producing white wines full of character - including Grüner Veltliner, Riesling and Pinot Blanc.
Where to buy Rudi Pichler wines: UK - Berkmann Wine Cellar; USA - Winebow; Netherlands - Ad Bibendum; Germany - Schlumberger
Weingut Machherndl:
Weingut Machherndl is a highly respected organic wine producer, with official organic certification first awarded for the 2018 vintage. They produce the traditional Wachau Grüner Veltliner and Riesling wines, but also less-typical varieties such as Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc, Zweigelt and Syrah. Located in the wine village of Wösendorf, Weingut Machherndl matches tradition with innovation and modernity. This can be witnessed in the contemporary, bright, spacious winery, where you can enjoy a wine tasting.
Where to buy Machherndl wines: UK - Enotria & Co Winecellars Ltd; Netherlands - Wijnhuis Amsterdam; Germany - Gute Weine Lobenberg GmbH & CO KG
Day 3 - Explore Dürnstein and the ‘Loibens’
Dürnstein, in the heart of the Wachau wine region, is better known as the 'Pearl of the Wachau Valley'.
It’s celebrated for its stunning vineyards and its incredible wines, its fairytale-like setting of picturesque architecture and stunning rolling vistas. Close to Dürnstein are the two wine villages of Unterloiben (lower) and Oberloiben (upper), where you can visit some fabulous wineries and enjoy some excellent food!
Coming into Dürnstein - view from the River Danube - Source: Winekeller
What to see and do in Dürnstein:
Soak up the atmosphere and enjoy wandering around the beautiful and unique medieval town of Dürnstein with its lovely shops, restaurants and historical buildings, including the remarkable Stiftskirche Cloister Tower, its blue façade, a striking Baroque masterpiece right on the banks of the River Danube.
If you’re feeling energetic, take a walk up to the ruins of Burgruine Castle, overlooking the town of Dürnstein below. Here, famously, in 1192 Richard the Lionheart was imprisoned and held captive for a year, during the Third Crusade, by Leopold V, Duke of Austria. The stunning views will make the walk up to the castle worth it, promise!
Where to eat in Dürnstein:
Enjoy superb local and traditional food at the Alter Klosterkeller, just at the entrance to the main street in Dürnstein, accompanied by excellent wines from Weingut Tergernseerhof (see below). When cooler, enjoy the friendly, cozy atmosphere inside, but in fine weather, sit outside amongst the Tegernseerhof ‘Superin’ vineyards, on the banks of the Danube - magical!
Experience a superb lunch or dinner at the beautiful Schloss Dürnstein overlooking the majestic River Danube below. We actually celebrated one of our wedding anniversaries here - what a great experience!
Where to eat in Unterloiben:
Visit the Wachauerstube in Unterloiben for incredible food, matched perfectly by incredible wines! Gerald Diemt, a good friend of ours and ex sommelier at top English restaurants, Cliveden House in Taplow and The Orrery in London, fulfilled his dream of owning and managing his own restaurant back home in Austria when he opened the Wachauerstube some years ago.
Another good option in Unterloiben is the Loibnerhof restaurant, again, great value for local, traditional food.
Wine tasting in Unterloiben & Oberloiben
Weingut Tegernseerhof:
The Tegernseerhof vineyards are located in the very best ‘Crus’ of the Wachau wine region, for example Loibenberg, Kellerberg and Steinertal. The steep terraces have ample exposure to the winds and the sun, helping to produce incredibly aromatic and characterful wines.
Innovation goes hand in hand with tradition at Tegernseerhof. Winemaker Martin Mittelbach, ensures a faithful interpretation of the tradition handed down over 5 previous generations and combines it with the latest winemaking innovation.
We have known Martin for quite a few years now and used to import his wines - believe us, they are seriously good!!
Where to buy Tergernseerhof wines: UK - H2VIN; USA - The Source Imports; Switzerland - Vinothek Brancaia and Gerstl Weinselektionen; Germany - Der WeinGerg and Kate & Kon
Weingut Alzinger:
Weingut Alzinger has been one of the superstars of the Wachau wine region since 1983. Leo Alzinger produces award-winning Grüner Veltliner and Riesling wines with grapes from his Loibner and Dürnstein top locations such as Loibenberg and Steinertal.
A redesign of the winery in 2017 also won an award for Alzinger, for "an exemplary structural development of the Wachau World Heritage Area". Another great reason to visit!
Where to buy Alzinger wines: Check out Wine Searcher for pricing and availability.
Weingut FX Pichler
Visit FX Pichler, famous for its futuristic winery design and excellent wines.
Wine tasting in Dürnstein
Domäne Wachau:
Domäne Wachau is a cooperative for white wines and has developed into one of the most important wineries in Austria, with a variety of typical Wachau wines, including from world-famous Wachau vineyards.
Domäne Wachau has won many prestigious awards, making it a top destination for wine lovers from all over the world. It was awarded no. 14 position in the list of the World’s Best Vineyards 2023. The quality-oriented program of events includes vineyard hikes, winery tours, a cellar heuriger and culinary delights. Wachau visitors can also buy Domäne Wachau’s wines in the vinotheque at the winery and in Shop 11A in Dürnstein's old town.
Where to buy Domäne Wachau wines: Check out Wine Searcher for pricing and availability.
Wine tasting in Rossatz
Weingut Josef Fischer:
Weingut Josef Fischer is situated on the southern banks of the River Danube in the Wachau Valley in the wine town of Rossatz just across from Dürnstein. Its origins date back to 1898, when it was the focus for not just wine, but animal farming. Today the Fischer winery is headed up by fifth generation Josef (Joe) Fischer, working closely with parents Josef (senior) and Ulrike.
The 11.5 hectares of vineyards are concentrated exclusively on white wines, producing mainly Grüner Veltliner and Riesling, highly elegant and fruity, but also mineral and concentrated wines with good ageing potential.
Josef Fischer senior is also affectionately known as "Huchen-Pepi" and has been breeding the endangered ‘huchen’ (type of large, sweet-water salmon), in his own garden with great passion and dedication since the 1980s.
Where to buy Josef Fischer wines: Check out Wine Searcher for pricing and availability.
Conclusion
Austria’s Wachau wine region is a magical place to spend a few days and we hope this article has given you the inspiration to plan your own Wachau wine tour. There’s so much to explore, the wine’s are simply first-class and the people and their hospitality are just second-to-none. Enjoy planning your trip - hopefully our experiences and recommendations will provide great input and see below for other sources of information and inspiration!
